Recognisable by his horned, furry and generally frightening figure, Der Krampus is a unique fixture in the Christmas tradition of the Alpine regions around southern Germany and Central Europe.
Quite the opposite of Saint Nicolas, Santa Claus or similar holiday characters that are marked by kindness and light, the Krampus is fascinating to those of us who grew up far from its reach, and making an effort to witness the creature and its surrounding traditions can make for a memorable wintertime experience.
Traditionally, Krampus is most often seen on the evening before Saint Nicolas Day, so the evening of December 5th. On this day he, sometimes along with St. Nicolas, might visit the houses of children in Bavaria, the Upper Palatinate as well as in Austria and the Tyrolean Alps.
While St. Nicolas brings sweets for the children who have been well behaved, the Krampus is meant to steal away those who have been bad. There is also a game in this, in which children try to approach or even taunt the Krampus without getting caught.
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Munich's Krampuslauf
In some villages around the Bavarian alps there are still local events in which the Krampus visits homes in the community, or in which the village gathers in a central location to participate in the tradition. But such events are for the local community, and not always open to visitors.
However there are public 'Krampus runs' (Krampuslauf) where you can see the impressive costumes, take photos and get into the Krampus spirit.
The biggest of which in Germany takes place in Munich each year – in fact its among the biggest in the world. Here you can see more than 300 people parade through Munich is elaborate Krampus, Perchten and Klabauf costumes.
The event is set for Sunday, December 14th this year.
It takes place around the city centre, so you can head to Marienplatz to begin with. The course that the parade follows starts on Augustiner Straße and proceeds along past Färbergraben, Rosental, Viktualienmarkt and the Old Town Hall.
Note that the event draws a crowd, so its worth finding a spot along the route a bit before the run begins to secure a spot with a good view. Also, dress warm and be prepared to stand or sit outside for some time – bringing a thermos with a warm drink is a good idea.
There are some other large Krampus runs to be found in cities around the Alps just beyond Germany's borders. If you're up for travelling a bit further to see the Krampus, you may also want to consider a visit to Salzburg, Innsbruck or Ischgl in Austria or Toblach, Italy.
Be warned that not all Krampus events are family friendly. Some have a reputation for tipping toward alcohol-fuelled chaos. But plenty of children and families are found at Munich's Krampuslauf, as well as at the larger events in Salzburg and Innsbruck.
Other 'Krampus runs' in Germany
For a smaller, and perhaps more traditional, Krampus experience you can try your luck at smaller cities and villages around Bavaria and Germany’s southern mountainous regions. If you happen to be in the area, you could always head to a nearby Christmas market around sunset on December 5th to see if the Krampus is on the prowl.
Outside Munich, the next biggest public event in the region takes place each year in the Alps in Berchtesgaden. Here you can also see the Buttnmandl (a similar creature of the region that is adorned in straw).
An annual Büttnmandllauf is organised by local members of the German Armed Forces every year on December 5th, which is open to the public.
A bit further north, there are regional Krampus runs to be found in the Upper Palatinate (Oberfalz) region of Bavaria – between Munich and Nuremberg and a bit to the east, near to Regensburg or Neumarkt.
Here a local group called the "Upper Palatinate Castle Devils" (Oberpfälzer Schlossteufeln) organises Krampus events at various Christmas markets.
Their next events are scheduled in Roding on December 5th, in Mühlhausen on the 6th and in Amberg on the 14th.
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