My Dear Krauts
Many Berliners have a talent for escape. Photo: DPA

Escaping in Berlin

Published: 26 Aug 09 11:59 CET
Online: http://www.thelocal.de/opinion/20090826-21493.html

Roger Boyes, the Berlin correspondent of British daily The Times, knuckles down to write his new book – but only after a valiant effort to escape work.

I’ve never been to journalism school but if I had the professor – I can imagine him now, a corduroy jacket with leather patches – would surely have said: State your theme at the beginning and then stay focused!

But that is precisely my problem at the moment. I have a book deadline fast approaching and have taken some time off from my daily work for The Times. Though I resolve every day to produce a certain number of pages, I instead wake up early, walk the dog, drink a coffee at the bakers and read the papers. Then I find some other way to occupy my time.

Only by seven o’clock in the evening am I ready to write. In a quick sprint, a page is written, followed by a recovery period; then half a page, and exhaustion. It is probably the least efficient way of writing ever devised but the sheer accumulation of vacillation and guilt, the day of delay is so draining that I have to go out of the house to reward myself with a drink.

This isn’t difficult because Berlin is full of bars for late-night folk, and I don’t mean the dreadful bunkers used by clubbers or the overpriced “lounges” with velvet ropes out front. I’m talking about places with names like “Imma oof” and “Rudis,” where shift-workers go to get rid of their excess adrenaline.

At my regular haunts there are usually some journalists, maybe an emergency room doctor after a busy, bloody night, and perhaps a policeman on his way home. There are surprisingly few drunks and since everyone is trying to clear his head after a long day of complex problem-solving, discussion tends to be monosyllabic. Arguments flare up and fizzle out.

The other night, a reporter who should have known better launched into a passionate lament for the newspaper Neues Deutschland which looks as if it could collapse. Now if ever there was a paper that deserved to go bust it must surely be the ND, the former mouthpiece of East Germany’s communist party the SED. It has re-invented itself since the bad old days, but not by much; it is a paper with a history of calculated deceit. But I was too tired to make the obvious counter-arguments and just walked out.

The next day, meeting Vera Dörrier-Breitwieser, I wished I had not dodged a fight. She is a formidable woman and possesses a memory sharp enough to dismantle any nostalgic case for preserving a newspaper that once made excuses for a rotten regime. Her story is Berlin in aspic. Forget her, and people like her, and you distort the moral compass of the city.

She was 28 and living with her parents in the eastern district of Pankow when the Wall went up, training reluctantly as a teacher. Her father was a librarian, a member of the SED and a true believer. Her mother was a sceptic. What kept Vera sane were her regular weekend trips to a Christian-Jewish discussion group in Wannsee. The Wall put an end to that and she wrote to the institute expressing her sadness. They in turn set in motion the escape organisation of the Free University of Berlin.

A picture of Vera was sent to students in Switzerland who helped find a Swiss woman vaguely resembling the East Berlin student. They borrowed the woman’s passport and sent it to the FU team. And Vera began the process of reconstructing herself: with all the self-discipline of an athlete.

She memorised the birthdates of the Swiss woman’s children – they were entered in the passport and the East German border guards could well have asked her tricky questions. She even set about learning Swiss German, and changed her look to match the photo.

Out came the East German labels in the underwear, off came the East German boots. A western coat with seal fur was arranged; a hat that could be pulled down to disguise the height of her forehead. The rivers and villages surrounding her supposed birthplace in Switzerland were memorised; a backstory was created and committed to memory.

All this for a few minutes performance at the Friedrichstrasse crossing point. December 1961 she got over; the next woman to try to use a Swiss passport was caught and sent to the Stasi’s prison in Hohenschönhausen.

That short walk from east to west was probably the greatest moment in Vera’s life; a triumph of discipline, teamwork, of holding ones nerve. Not everything went smoothly later in West Berlin, but she found happiness in her work as a librarian at the Otto Suhr Institute.

Her life story, told to me over coffee without pathos, is proof that the Berliners have a great talent for escape. But it also reminded me that if you want to achieve something strongly enough, even the least promising of personalities can develop the appropriate psychological muscle, the habits of self-discipline.

So here’s my personal progress report: since meeting Vera, I have started to write in the mornings. Not much, and I am still easily distracted. But the pages are beginning to fill up, one by one.

For more Roger Boyes, check out his website here.

The Local (news@thelocal.de)

What do you think? Leave your comment below.

Survey
Fark It! Digg This Facebook  Share everywhere
Send to a friend Printable version Twitter This

Your comments about this article:

16:23 August 27, 2009 by wood artist
Being in the midst of writing a historical novel set in Berlin, I can understand Roger's problems. For me, Berlin is too big a canvas, and I find myself wanting to include all the gritty details that make the city what it is. Vera's story is great, and there are many more, equally "exciting" and equally touching.

Thanks for sharing this, Roger.
22:11 August 29, 2009 by Fitzgerald
My Dear Krauts ?????????

What is that supposed to mean ? Is this a sarcastic English terminology to describe their fellow saxon cousins once again in a manner based on contempt ?

Kraut = Cabbage !!!!!! My Dear Cabbages ???????

I wonder how the English would like to be addressed as in the following:

My Dear Island Monkeys !!

Perhaps being called a Cabbage is not so bad as being called a Monkey but it is hardly any appropriate way to address fellow Europeans by slanderous name calling in this very era of Political Correctness..

Showing respect is actually a common courtesy - That includes all Germans ?

John
15:11 August 30, 2009 by Scottrocks9
I can only concur with the comment by Fitzgerald (john) about the heading for this column. I find it offensive(I am neither German, English, American). Why not name your columns "My Dear Pakis, or My Dear Coolies or My Dear Coons'. It was the first thing that struck me when I saw this column. The Local should insist on this being changed and I will not read anything Roger Boyes has to write until it is. Does he actually get paid to wriet this nonsense? It also reflects a condescending attitude by the writer and guess what...it's not even funny as he seems to think it is. And lastly, there is one thing no English person should ever have over a German and that is a condescending attitude-Germany is a far superior society to England and at least, they can play football.
10:23 September 2, 2009 by Dugald
My Dear Square Headed Sausage Eaters and Whingeing Poms, I consider neither of your societies superior to the other and think the debate has become slightly ridiculous.

Anyone who finds Rogers humor offensive is either taking themselves far to seriously or just does'nt get the irony.
03:42 September 3, 2009 by Scottrocks9
Boyes is not funny, but he seems to think he is, so you Dugald, can laugh at it but it's third rate. And yes, Germany is superior to England in so many ways that Boyes and supporters should just stuff their conceit. And yes, the headline 'My Dear Krauts' smacks of that silly conceit. I won't be reading his crap anymore.
12:12 September 4, 2009 by Small Town Boy
Boyes has a habit of sticking his foot into it, apparently without realising he's doing it. "My Dear Krauts" isn't only the name of this column, he's actually gone and published an entire book, in German, with this title. Needless to say it receives terrible reviews on Amazon.de, as do his other books, entitled "A Year in the Scheisse" and "How to be a Kraut". He should probably stick to writing history books and dull copy for The Times.
16:02 September 11, 2009 by Scottrocks9
Boyes is obviously not an intelligent individual or a person of class. The Local must be hard-up for properly trained English speaking writers for their publication, because this drivel could never pass for comedy, wit, or professional journalism. The Local could, and should do better than this, because this sort of thing brings down the average, so to speak, of the publication. Boyes could certainly write a piece titled " How to be an English @$$h0le freeloading in Germany". For that, he would be a natural.
ADD YOUR COMMENT   (YOU MUST LOG IN OR REGISTER TO MAKE A COMMENT)
For comment quoting and other advanced formatting features,
try posting via this article's discussion forum page instead.
Today's headlines
Photo: DPA

Dutch populist Wilders 'unwelcome' in Eifel town

The Dutch anti-Islam populist Geert Wilders has been told he is “not welcome” in the western German town of Monschau after he spent the weekend in the Eifel region. READ »

Photo: DPA

Spring is (hopefully) on the way

Spring is finally on its way to Germany after a particularly long and brutal winter. Warm winds could raise temperatures to a balmy 20 degrees Celsius by the end of the week, according to the German Weather Service (DWD). READ (3 COMMENTS) »

Photo: DPA

Popular Passion play bad for Bavarian barbers

Once every 10 years, this Bavarian village crucifies Jesus all over again and local hairdressers nearly go out of business. READ (2 COMMENTS) »

Photo: DPA

Röttgen could strip authority of nuclear waste storage duties

German Environment Minister Norbert Röttgen is reportedly considering stripping the Federal Office for Radiation Protection (BfS) of its nuclear waste duties to expedite storage at the controversial Gorleben site. READ »

Photo: DPA

Doctor shortage alarms military commissioner

Rheinhold Robbe, Germany’s outgoing parliamentary commissioner for the Bundeswehr, on Tuesday raised alarm over a shortage of military doctors and lacking equipment for the country's soldiers. READ (4 COMMENTS) »

SPD attacked over Hartz IV proposals

SPD attacked over Hartz IV proposals

Labour Minister Ursula von der Leyen blasted the opposition Social Democrats’ proposals for reforming Hartz IV welfare benefits Tuesday as a “backward” vision that aimed to make recipients “as comfortable as possible.” READ (2 COMMENTS) »

Photo: DPA

Germany slaps down France over trade claims

Germany hit back on Tuesday at French claims that Berlin was squeezing salaries to boost its trade surplus at the expense of eurozone partners. READ (11 COMMENTS) »

Photo: DPA

Church suspends priest whom Benedict helped

The Catholic priest at the centre of a paedophilia scandal that has embroiled Pope Benedict XVI was suspended from duty late Monday amid revelations he was still working with children 25 years after he was convicted of sexual abuse. READ (4 COMMENTS) »

More Analysis & Opinion
Highlights
Photo: DPA
OPINION »
Questions about Foreign Minister Guido Westerwelle allegedly promoting personal interests on official trips abroad have nothing to do with him being gay, argues Tissy Bruns.

See all ads | Join the Marketplace

Jobs in Germany, in English

685 jobs in Germany, in English
389 new jobs this week
0 new jobs today

ALL JOBS »

Latest news from The Local in Sweden
Blog
Essentials

Dating
Looking for your own blonde bombshell? Or is the strong, silent type more your style? Find a German sweetheart here.

Weather
"After clouds comes clear weather," say the Germans. But what about after that? Find out in The Local's weather section.

Blog
German stuff that's distracting us today.

Noticeboard
Whether you want to buy, sell, hire, announce or promote something, here's the place to do it - completely free of charge.

Discuss
Debate the news, ask for advice, make friends - or just let off steam.

Search News


Register

Register now for:
> Free use of noticeboard
> Special discounts
> Weekly news roundup
> Unlimited use of discuss

REGISTER FOR FREE »

News from the Goethe-Institut
News from Young Germany
News from DeutschlandOnline
Best Foreign exchange rates dealing - all major currencies
Foreign Currency Direct voted as offering the best exchange rates. All currency exchange transactions are managed by Ben Amrany. We guarantee that readers of The Local/Toytown receive a 5 star service
FULL DETAILS HERE>>>
Are you paying too much for health insurance?
Qualitura Independent Broker - Native English speaking German insurance specialist able to find the best solution for health insurance; many of our clients saved up to €2,400 a year. Get a free quote!
MORE INFO
JOB: Junior Project Manager (m/f)
ProCredit Holding is offering an exciting position in its Frankfurt-based marketing team
FULL JOB DETAILS
Advertising 2.0
MARKETPLACE - promote your business to half a million targeted readers a month on The Local. Find great products and services in Germany or tell The Local's readers about your own business.
CLICK HERE>>>
Sales managers - country wide
The Local is seeking talented and experienced media sales professionals for our online advertising sales in Germany
FULL JOB DETAILS

The Local Europe GmbH
Linienstrasse 214
10119 Berlin
Germany